Turning a porch, patio or balcony into a mini-garden can be possible when you look at container gardening. This is really one of the best and newest hobbies out there today and for those who haven't got the luxury of a full green lawn; this is the next...
Sunday, December 6, 2015
Friday, December 4, 2015
Monday, November 30, 2015
Monday, November 16, 2015
Why Purchase Herbs At The Supermarket?
Herbs are no doubt among the easiest plants to grow in your garden. Many of them are fairly drought tolerant and have a blooming period albeit short. In addition, herbs lend a delicious fragrance to the garden. I am especially bias about herbs. Where I come from in North Dakota, every girl was taught about herbs as you could not get animals or people to the doctor in 50 below zero weather. When my Dad would go to the barn they had a raw hide rope tied to the barn and then to the house so when they went to milk they could find the barn. They dug deep tunnels in the snow, the snow was lots taller than my brother or Dad and they were well over six feet. I remember my mom growing herbs on our sun porch. Even though North Dakota is a harsh weather land, it has a lot of sunny days in the winter. So not only do I like the flavor a huge variety of herbs, but I see the value as medicinal herbs.
While most herbs are easily grown in containers which is a major plus, if you have space, consider planting an entire herb garden. It needn't take that much space. A plot of land measuring approximate 200-400 square feet should do you quite nicely. Find out the diameter of a mature plant; obtain some graph paper and sketch out your garden before you dig a single hole. Remember to allow at least 1 foot of space between mature plants for ease of weeding and pruning. I went from a house with a large yard, where I could grow whatever I liked, to an apartment where my outdoor space was a hole in the ground. That is what I call my patio. It has a nice screen door that leads to the patio, it is very dark and shady, but it has a roof and I mounted grow lights to the ceiling of the roof. Then I could grow anything. I have a lot of photos of my hole in the ground. Anyway, I now am moving to a high rise in Seattle. No outdoor space, maybe I will be able to get a community garden. If not this is some plans I have for my kitchen in the new place where the kitchen is very dark. Grow lights and glass shelfs will brighten it a great deal.
One of the most fragrant herbs to add to your garden is lavender. The scent of lavender in bloom is heavenly and is wonderful for making scented sachets to hang in your closet or place in your dresser drawers. This is the only herb I would suggest you plant as many as you have space for as those sachets make wonderful gifts. Lavender is very calming, doctors even sometimes prescribe it for Alzhimers patients. The essential oil on your feet at night will help you to sleep.
As the song goes, 4 great savory herbs to add to your garden are Parsley, Sage, Rosemary and Thyme. Fresh chopped parsley is a wonder addition to potato and pasta salads, not to mention a lovely garnish for many other dishes. Try drying sage leaves to add to many dishes including stuffing for turkey and chicken. And, both rosemary and thyme are excellent accents when roasting poultry and lamb among other savory dishes.
Tarragon is a wonderful addition to soups and vegetables. This herb is also good in tuna, egg, pasta and green salads. Add when making sauces for fish or chicken, it's a must for béarnaise sauce.
If you intend upon canning pickled vegetables from your garden or making pretty vinegars for gifts think about planting some dill. While its true you can purchase dried dill weed very cheaply, there is no way you can get a full stalk of dill unless you grow it or pay rather dearly for it when needed in quantity.
In my opinion, no herb garden is complete without chives. In fact, if I could plant only one herb, it would be chives because they are so very useful. While I love green onions, by the time I get around to using them, alas they all but lifeless. No problem with chives growing right outside my door. They not only add that touch of needed green, they also have that subtle onion flavor which is perfect for salads and potato toppings.
Unfortunately, another one of my favorite herbs is not worth planting. Cilantro tends to bolt so quickly you would be lucky to retrieve a leaf or two. Obviously those that grow cilantro commercially know something we don't know and they aren’t telling. If you figure it out please let me in on the secret. I will let you in on my secret for preserving store bought cilantro, however. Place the bunch of cilantro in a glass of water and cover with the plastic bag it came in. This way, the cilantro will stay fresh and crisp for up to 2 weeks in your fridge.
On a final note, let's talk about mint. A favorite of mine is pineapple mint. It has a wonderful fragrance and taste and makes a lovely tea and garnish. However, there is a real problem with mint. It's tangled roots go deep and it tends to try to take over every other plant in the garden. Spray it with Round-up and it comes right back again. Once planted, you simply can't get rid of it! So, if you want to add mint to your garden, plant it in a container and move the container often enough to insure it doesn't take root in the ground through the drainage hole in the container.
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Saturday, November 7, 2015
Add Style to Your Pergola
Pergolas are a shady, garden structure whose beginnings date back to ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome, and were common features in early Renaissance gardens throughout Europe. Their primary purpose was to provide shade on walkways, terraces, or pools. The earlier versions were often constructed from stone pillars with wooden cross-beams with a lattice roof. It was common to see ivy, grapevines, or other climbing plants winding around the wood, and filling the open spaces between the lattice. Today they are often constructed from pressure-treated wood or cedar. The many varieties of maintenance-free lumber products are also widely used. They give the look of wood, but never need painting, resist rot, peeling, and fading, and are available in a variety of colors.
A pergola makes a striking accent to any landscaping theme; not only are they eye-catching, but functional as well. Depending on their size, pergolas often become an extension of the main home, and may be used for entertaining, dining, or as a getaway or quiet oasis for reading or enjoying morning coffee.
Ideas for Pergolas:
1. The most common version is a simple post construction with wood cross-pieces or lattice for the roof, and used to cover a deck or patio. It can be painted or stained, and accented with lighting, plants, and other accessories.
2. Install your pergola along the entire length of the house, similar to an awning. It can extend out farther at different points to create interest and seating areas underneath.
3. Use it to cover a hot tub.
4. Place in a random area of the yard to create a shady spot to escape from the afternoon sun. Add a nice little bench, and plant climbing roses or other scented vines nearby. Cover it with tin or shingles, to create extra coverage.
5. Create road appeal by placing your pergola over a front porch in place of a standard roof. Paint or stain it the same color as your shutters or house trim. It won't entirely keep out the rain, but it will provide a certain amount of shelter, and create an impressive entrance.
6. Instead of the standard lattice look on the roof, use strips of bamboo placed side by side. It creates additional shade and gives the structure a twig furniture look.
7. Your pergola is the perfect place let those showy vines grow wild; creating a thick natural canopy. Vines that work well include Hops, Wisteria, Jade, Grapes, Morning Glory, Cypress, and many varieties of climbing roses. It's also a great place to grow vegetables such as peas or Scarlett Runner Beans.
8. Give your pergola some style by adding architectural accents such as a curved top, cylindrical wooden column supports, or design a top that flows with the roof lines of your house.
9. Dress up the open sides with outdoor fabric curtains, bamboo shades, or a manicured Boxwood hedge.
10. Use your pergola to create a garden filled with your favorite shade-loving plants. You may want to try Hostas, Bleeding Hearts, Yellow Corydalis, Bigroot Geranium, Monkshood or Lungwort.
11. Give your pergola a rustic look by using rough logs and unstained beams. Weave willow or alder twigs in the roof and display your twig furniture below.
12. A pergola is the perfect place for that hanging swing, chair or hammock. Add a small table, a cool drink, a good book, and you've got the perfect recipe for a lazy afternoon.
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Thursday, November 5, 2015
WILD-FLOWER GARDEN.
Saturday, October 31, 2015
Adding Beauty To Your Garden With An Arbor
Garden arbors are set up as shaded places in home gardens or public parks where one can relax and rest. These open frameworks are typically made of latticework or rustic work, functioning also as a trellis for climbing or creeping plants. Arbors can also be constructed for decks or patios. Today's garden arbors were not the first attempt to enhance the beauty of gardens. In the 400s B.C. and A.D. 400's, elaborate courtyards were a hallmark of many Roman homes. Landscape architecture was also given a premium in Japanese gardens (A.D. 500's) and Persian gardens (A.D.200's-600's). Beauty was also a priority for civic plazas and hillside estates for Italians in the 1400's-1500's. City gardens and majestic palaces were the highlight of France during the 1600's and 1700's, while country estates with a natural look were the main theme followed by English designers in the 1800's.
1. Landscape Architecture
For a good number of these early country estates and gardens, designers were known as landscape gardeners. An American - Frederick Law Olmsted - was the first to use 'landscape architect'. He indicated this title when he approved design plans for Manhattan's Central Park in New York City with Calvert Vaux as his partner in the 1850's. Landsape architecture is not limited to major projects. Some homeowners tap the services of professionals to add beauty to their gardens. However, others now feel confident in do-it-yourself projects as a cost-effective alternative to make their gardens beautiful.
2. Use Quality Materials
Creating a small garden arbor is an easy task, with costs becoming significantly less if the homeowner is patient enough to shop around and compare prices, particularly for pressure-treated lumber. Other items that may vary slightly across discount stores in price terms are deck screws, scrap lumber, crushed stone or gravel, washers, bolts and nuts. The same principles apply to building larger arbors, although some ideas and items would tend to increase in scale. As an example, using two posts for a small arbor may mean using four posts for a large one, as a bigger arbor would need greater support for strength and stability, and also to enhance alignment.
3. Designing a Garden Arbor: Some Do-It-Yourself Fundamentals
- To stabilize the arbor, the homeowner should have the main posts of the structure sunk into concrete poured into holes below the garden's ground level.
- The carpenter's level is used to determine if the posts stand at equal heights. The tool is also used to establish plumbness, or if the posts are vertically 'level.'
Shop at bjewelu.com where discerning women over 50 shopes in varying measurements can be attached perpendicular to the posts for further support.
- Since some rejects still make their way to lumber stores, one should be patient enough to sort through many boards until a good quality board is found.
- Buyers should remember that conventional measurements are not exact: a 4 by 4 may actually measure 3.5 by 3.5, while 2 by 4 may measure 1.5 by 3.5.
- The same consideration for post height must also be given, as part of the arbor posts will be underground. Galvanized post anchors is one option homeowners have if they intends to make use of the post's full height - or have all posts above ground level - for their garden.
4. Tools For Do-It-Yourself Projects
These will actually cost a lot more if one does not have the necessary tools at home for building garden arbors.
- Circular saw or handsaw
- Stepladder
- Wheelbarrow
- Hammer
- Wrench
- Spade bit
- Garden hose
- Carpenter's level
- Shovel
- Drill
- File
- Wood chisel
5. Building Tips
- Arbor boards can already be pre-drilled and pre-cut as a time-saving step.
- The wooden crosspieces can be designed at the ends. Patterns can be drawn using a pencil and later cut using a jigsaw.
Friday, October 30, 2015
GROWING VEGETABLES IN WINTER
Monday, October 26, 2015
Why I Decided To Plan My Next Years Garden Last Fall
Saturday, October 24, 2015
About tree seeds and bonsai seeds germination instructions
About Basic Care of Seeds
It is important to maintain the freshness of the seeds in order to facilitate proper germination. This is why we store all of our seeds in a refrigerator dedicated for this purpose. Therefore, in order to preserve their freshness until you are ready to begin the germination process, you can store the purchased seeds in the plastic bag we have provided. You can place the seeds in the vegetable drawer of your refrigerator.
About Germination Instructions
Once you are ready to germinate your seeds, you have two (2) germination methods: natural germination or forced germination.
Natural germination: Sow seeds outside in autumn. Overwintering the seeds will accomplish all the necessary natural processes seeds require to germinate. Next spring, you should have sprouted seeds.
With forced germination, you are accomplishing the germination process artificially. Therefore, you will need to follow the steps listed below. Each seed is different. However most of them require three (3) steps. Some may require more while others may require less. These steps are: the scarification, the stratification and sowing.
1 - Scarification
Each seed has a shell around the live inner part. Some are harder than others. The goal of the scarification process is to soften the shell and allow water to reach the inner part of the seed. You will scarify the seeds by placing them in water, usually a glass or a bowl, for a period of twenty four (24) to forty eight (48) hours. The norm appears to be the use of warm water. Some seeds require boiling water while others require water at room temperature. Normally, the viable seeds will drown after the twenty four (24) hour period while others will float on top. If there are still seeds floating after the forty eight (48) hour period, you can discard them as they are empty seeds. Once completed, you are ready to begin the next step ( please note that some seeds require you to proceed directly to the third step).
2 - Cold Stratification
The next step is the cold stratification period. This step is where all the magic of nature occurs. In nature, most of the seeds fall from the trees in autumn. Consequently, seeds spend the winter period under colder temperature permitting the chemical in the seeds to develop and trigger the germination process once the ideal temperature is reached in spring. In the forced germination process, you attempt to recreate the winter period. In order to accomplish this process, use the following materials:
Plastic Ziplock bag
Paper towel
Water
Fold the paper towel in two and moisten with water. It should not be dripping wet but humid. Place your seeds on the humid paper towel and fold it over the seeds. Place the paper towel with the seeds in the ziplock plastic bag and store them in your refrigerator for a period varying from thirty (30) to one hundred and twenty (120) days. We suggest that you check your seeds every thirty (30) days in order to prevent rot and allow for proper air circulation. You will also check for germinated seeds. If this is the case, take the germinated seeds and proceed to the next step. If not, wait the required period and then proceed to the next step.
3 - Sowing
Sowing can be accomplished in the ground or in a pot. You can use any soil suitable for planting and growing. Make a small opening in the soil (approximately half (1/2) an inch deep), place the seed in the opening and cover it with a few millimetres of soil. Keep the soil moist.
Extra steps for certain species
If you choose to germinate your seeds via the forced germination process, you may be required to follow this extra step. This step takes place prior to the cold stratification. All you have to do is expose the seeds to ambient room temperature for thirty (30) to ninety (90) days. This is called heat stratification and is accomplished by leaving the seeds exposed in a plate on your desk. After you have achieved this step, you resume with cold stratification.
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Saturday, October 17, 2015
Where Did The Window Boxes Go?
About basic bonsai styles
Bonsai, as a Japanese art form, is more regulated than it’s Chinese counterpart, the penjing. Bonsai attempts to achieve the ideal tree, while penjing attempts to reproduce nature. This is why perfect styling exists in bonsai if you obey the ‘rules’, while penjing leave you free to your creation. As a result these are the basic styles :
Broom (Hokidachi or Hoki-zukuri)
A very harmonious style, this form has branches that develop at a certain height, forming an upside broom. This styling is mainly achieved through a technique called the “V” cut. The trunk is chopped where you want the branch to start to develop and then a deep V cut is performed on the remaining trunk. This will induce buds to break near the cut. Zelkova serrata are notorious for this styling but maple and other deciduous species can easily be styled that way.
Formal Upright (Chokkan)
A tree styled the “chokkan” way has a straight trunk tapering graciously from bottom to top. The first and biggest branch is often situated at 1/3 of the desired height of the tree and is on the right or the left. The following branch is situated on the opposite side, while the third is in the back creating the perception depth. As we look at the branch structure from bottom to top, the branches are getting thinner, creating a pyramidal shape.
Informal Upright (Moyogi)
This style is very similar to the previously mentionned style as the same rules of design apply, however, the trunk is not straight but rather forms a sinuous shape while remaining tapered. This style is commonly used with conifers.
Slanting (Shakan)
Once again, this style is the same as the formal upright except that the trunk is leaning on one side. Branches are grown uniformly on the trunk like the formal/informal upright styles but the apex is tilted to the opposite side of the trunk giving a visual balanced effect.
Cascade (Kengai)
This styling requires an inclined trunk that is preferably at a 45 degree angle. The major portion of the foliage is below the pot line and sometimes goes beyond the pot itself. It often represents a tree growing on the side of cliff. A deep pot is used for this style.
Semi-cascade (Han-Kengai)
Similar to the Kengai style, this style also has an inclinated trunk. However, the foliage remains at the height of the pot line. In nature, we can see this style near a waterway, the foliage having grown on the side and leaning towards the water. While the cascade style uses a deeper pot, this style uses a medium depth pot.
Windswept (Fukinagashi)
A “windswept” tree represents a tree that has been growing in a certain shape due to natural elements . Often caused by strong wind, the trunk is always inclinated in a certain direction and all branches have grown on the same side.
Literati (Bunjin)
This styling is often represented in Japanese paintings. It is a tree with a tall and sinuous trunk. The foliage only grows near the summit of the tree. This styling is somewhat an exception to the rigorous rules of bonsai because it does not have specific rules. It represents what the bunjin movement is in Japan: the search for liberty.
Group/Forest (Yose-ue)
This styling often represents a forest or a small cluster of trees. It is supposed to be styled in a way that will clearly represent the growing habits of trees in a group. Many techinques can be used to achieve this styling and many perception techniques are used to create the illusion of a forest, or as Naka would say, “having the quality of the invisible beauty of nature”. To respect the Japanese art form, an odd number of trees is prefered for this styling.
Raft (Ikadabuki)
The same rules of the group planting apply to this style. However, all of the trunks emerge from one common trunk. This technique is often achieved with a branch placed verticaly in the soil. The roots form this branch and the upper part of the vertical branch develop secondary branches that will eventually become the trunks.
Multi-trunk Style (Sokan - Sankan)
This multi-trunk style has different possibilities. The first, which is called “Sokan”, consists of two trunks emerging from the same visible roots (nebari). The styling of the upper part of the tree must respect the same rules as the formal / informal upright styles previously described. Another variance consists of the same but with three trunks emerging from the visible roots. This is called “Sankan”. You can also have more than three trunks but to respect Japanese bonsai, it is prefered to have an odd number of trunks.
Roots Over Rock (Ishitsuki)
This styling has the specific charactreristics of having many visible roots growing over a rock and finding their way to the pot/soil.
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Saturday, October 10, 2015
8 Tips To Get Your Kids Enjoy Home Gardening
Dirt has always been one of the kids' best toys, so home gardening could just be one fun activity for your children. Excite them by allowing them to pick whichever plant they want to grow. Here are some tips to help you make your little ones become enthusiastic with home gardening.
1. Choose the right plants
Kids will more likely choose plants and flowers with bright colors, so have a load of varieties of plants. Examples of bright flowers are zinnias and cosmos; these will keep your children fascinated. Don't forget the sunflowers. Anything that is tall and fuzzy will surely overwhelm a kid. Make sure these plants will not cause any allergic reactions from your kid.
2. Starting seeds
Give your children the freedom to help you with the staring seeds. Some seeds might be too small for the tiny fingers, but their digits can be of help in covering them with dirt.
3. Home Gardening Memoir
To last the kids' enthusiasm until the plants grow, make them create a home gardening journal. This activity will allow them to use their imagination to sketch on what the plants will be like and write down when they placed in the ground the seeds and when they first witnessed a sprout pushing up.
4. Make sure that the garden is somewhere very visible for the kids.
Before you start home gardening, pick a spot where the kids often play or walk by. Every time they see and pass by their garden, the more they will sight changes.
5. Dirt playing
Always remember that children are fond of playing with dirt or mud. They can help you ready the soil, even if what they are only doing is stomping on the clumps. To make home gardening with the kids more fun, you can provide them with kid-sized tools to make home gardening very engaging for them.
6. Your kids own the garden
A picture of each plant will enable the children to foresee what the flowers will look like. You can also put your child's name on a placard, so everyone can see that it's their garden.
7. Playing with the water
Playing with water is right up there with playing with dirt. Look for a small watering can that they can use to water their garden. You can show them how to let the water go right to the roots of the plants. Hoses want only trouble. They are simply formidable for little hands to control.
8. Kids commit mistakes
Adults, too, are sometimes impatient. Give the kids full control to their garden. If they create a mess, let it be, it's their mess. Allow them to get pleasure from it and take dignity in their own piece of territory. Just don't forget to tell them how to clean up that mess.
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Algae vs. Lichens In The Garden
Friday, October 9, 2015
7 Factors Needed for a Compost Pile
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Compost, made from decomposed grass clippings, leaves, twigs, and branches, becomes a dark, crumbly mixture of organic matter.
Learn how composting works. Even a newbie to composting can make good quality compost. It can be compared to cooking as art or part science. The following 7 factors will help you master the art of composting.
1. Materials
After a time anything that was once alive will naturally decompose. But, not all organic items should be composted for the home. To prepare compost, organic material, microorganisms, air, water, and a small amount of nitrogen are needed.
These items are safe to compost at home:
* grass clippings
* trimmings from hedges
* vegetable scraps
* leaves
* potting soil that has grown old
* twigs
* coffee filters with coffee grounds
* tea bags
* weeds that have not went to seed
* plant stalks
These items are Not safe to compost at home:
* weeds that have went to seed
* dead animals
* pet feces
* bread and grains
* meat
* grease
* cooking oil
* oily foods
*diseased plants
2. What To Do To Make It Work
There are small forms of plant and animal life which break down the organic material. This life is called microorganisms. From a minute amount of garden soil or manure comes plenty of microorganisms.
Nitrogen, air, and water will provide a favorable environment for the microorganisms to make the compost. Air circulation and water will keep the microorganisms healthy and working. The nitrogen feeds the tiny organisms. You may have to add a small amount of nitrogen to the pile.
Putting on too much nitrogen can kill microbes and too much water causes insufficient air in the pile. You just cannot add too much air.
3. Beneficial Microorganisms
Bacteria are the most effective compost makers in your compost pile. They are the first to break down plant tissue. Then comes the fungi and protozoans to help with the process. The arthropodes, like centipedes, beetles, millipedes and worms, bring in the finishing touches to complete the composting.
4. Smaller is Better
The materials will break down faster if the microorganisms have more surface area to eat. Chopping your garden materials with a chipper, shredder, or lawnmower will help them decompose faster.
5. Size of The Pile
The activity of millions of microorganisms generates heat in the compost pile but a minimum size 3-foot by 3-foot by 3-foot is needed for a hot, fast composting pile. Piles that are any larger may hamper the air supply needed in the pile for the microorganisms.
6. Moisture and Aeration
If you can imagine a wet squeezed out sponge with its many air pockets, then this would be the ideal enviroment for the microorganisms in the pile to function at their best. Pay attention while your pile is composting, to the amount of rain or a drought you may have. Water in a drought and maybe turn the pile in a lot of rainy days. The extremes of these two may upset the balance of the pile. The use of a pitchfork would come in handy at this time.
7. Temperature and Time
Keep your pile between 110F and 160F and the beneficial bacteria will love it. Not too cool nor too hot.
The temperature will rise over several days if you keep a good ratio of carbon and nitrogen, maintain lots of surface area within a large volume of material, and maintain adequate moisture and aeration.
-Importance of Compost-
+Compost has nutrients, but it is not a complete fertilizer.
+Compost provides nutrients in the soil until plants need to use them.
+ It loosens and aerates clay soils
+ Retains water in sandy soils.
-Using the Compost-
+ A soil amendment, mix 2 to 5 inches of compost into gardens each year before planting.
+ A potting mixture, add one part compost to two parts potting soil.
+ Make your own potting mixture by using equal parts of compost and sand or perlite.
+ A mulch, prodcast 2 to 4 inches of compost around annual flowers and vegetables, and up to 5 inches around your trees and shrubs.
+ A top dressing, mix finely sifted compost with sand and sprinkle evenly over lawns.
The final thing I would suggest once you have mastered the art of composting is to look very seriously at making your very own aerated compost tea. This elixir will give you results that are hard to believe.
Labels:
aeration soil,
compost,
composting,
microorganisms,
pile
Tuesday, October 6, 2015
How to Build a Chicken Coop
[adrotate group="2"] Keeping chickens-even for city dwellers is a trend that just keeps on growing.Practical information such as how to properly size a coop and how to source reclaimed materials is included. It's storming, you're bored, and you've...
Monday, October 5, 2015
Hibiscus
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There are over a 200 kinds of hibiscus. They grow all over the world. They have been associated with the Goddess as the Rose of Sharon variety. They have a long history. Not surprising as they are beautiful and used for many medicinal purposes. If your hibiscus has dull medium green heart shaped leaves, dinner plate sized white, pink or red flowers with HUGE, bomb shaped buds (2-4` in length!), it is a perennial, hardy hibiscus. Hardy hibiscus need very little care over the winter, they are root hardy to about zone 5 with no protection. They die to the ground each year. Hibiscus (Hibiscus sabdariffa), also known as roselle, is a flowering shrub in the plant family of Malvaceae and is the commonly used species of hibiscus for tea. The calyces are used to make cold and hot beverages in many of the world`s tropical and subtropical countries. The calyces (or calyxes) are used which are the outer portion of the flower bud. The calyces are often referred to as hibiscus flowers in recipes and tea blends. It is also a great contribution to the popular rosehip tea giving it a lemony flavor and lovely red color. The aroma and taste of Hibiscus is slightly of berry-like aroma. It has a well balanced, tart and astringent flavor. Hibiscus were once called shoe-black, `indicating the use of its flowers by tropical bootblacks, to polish shoes.` (Taylor`s Encyclopedia of Gardening, 1961) This was the single reliable reference to this use the author could discover. Nor could this author allow such a claim to stand without attempting experimentation.One red flower (five petals removed from calyx, stamens, and pistil) did one shoe. The red petals became liquefied and slimy under pressure against the leather. The liquid dried and could be buffed within minutes. The right shoe of an old pair of black business shoes now appears much shinier than its `sinister` counterpart. The tips of the thumb, index, and middle finger of my right hand were also a dark purple until liquid detergent and a brush were applied. Medicinal Uses Medicinally, leaves are emollient, and are much used in Guinea as a diuretic, refrigerant, and sedative; fruits are antiscorbutic; leaves, seeds, and ripe calyces are diuretic and antiscorbutic; and the succulent calyx, boiled in water, is used as a drink in bilious attacks; the leaves and powdered seeds are eaten in West Africa. Philippines use the bitter root as an aperitive and tonic. Angolans use the mucilaginous leaves as an emollient and as a soothing cough remedy. Hibiscus flower extract has been used in many folk remedies for liver disorders and high blood pressure. Hibiscus - Relieves stomach problems, sweetens breath and soothes nerves. Said to be an aphrodisiac. Cholesterol / Heart Disease - a study at the Chung Shan University in Taiwan involving rats on high cholesterol diets demonstrated that an extract of the hibiscus flower significantly lowered cholesterol content in blood serum and prevented oxidation of LDL, `bad`, cholesterol. `Experiments have shown that compounds extracted from red wine and tea reduce cholesterol and lipid build-up in the arteries of rats. `This is the first study to show that Hibiscus extract has the same effect.` - Dr. Chau-Jong Wang, lead researcher Hypertension - in one study individuals with hypertension were given hibiscus tea once daily for 12 days. Members of the control group lowered their blood pressure by 11% versus 4% for the control group. Liver Disorder - hibiscus is thought to help with liver disorders, though no studies to this effect have been done. It act as an antiseptic, aphrodisiac, astringent, cholagogue, demulcent, digestive, diuretic, emollient, purgative, refrigerant, resolvent, sedative, stomachic, and tonic. Roselle is a folk remedy for abscesses, bilious conditions, cancer, cough, debility, dyspepsia, dysuria, fever, hangover, heart ailments, hypertension, neurosis, scurvy, and strangury. Uses include an aphrodisiac; soothes nerves; antispasmodic; itchy skin; stomach problems; sweeten breath; attract love/lust; divination; dreams. Bunga Raya, is known for its medicinal properties. The roots of the plant are used as a cure for fever and other ailments, while the juice obtained from the leaves and roots is said to be effective in relieving skin eruptions and glandular troubles. Also, the petals were commonly used as cosmetics to darken and highlight women`s eyebrows. Rose of Sharon was not so much a specific earthly flower as it was a symbol of the Perfect Bride, & the Perfect Bride symbolized the fruitfulness & beauty of the Earth (or Earthmother) when She was at peace & in harmony with God. `Sharon` means `Fruitful,` a word that Torah associates with good pasturage for sheep. Shop at bjewelu.com where discerning women over 50 shop |
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Evening Primrose
I remember the first time I saw Evening Primrose it was growing in an old abandoned garden. I tried to dig it, but it did not move well. I loved the way it looked. I didn't know what it was so I took a flower to my favorite nursery and ask what it was they told me it was a weed.
Could I get some for my yard? The guy at the nursery thought I was nuts. I remember him telling me that it would take over my yard. But he got me two plants and it did spread. Like many of my other herbs, it is prolific but I just cut the ones that get out of hand and put them in my compost pile. For some reason unknown to me they help break down compost at a faster rate.
One of the first things I learned about this herb was that it was a night time flower. I love night time flowers they shine in the moonlight. Evening Primrose is especially beautiful in a moonlight garden as it is phosphorescent in the moonlight. It also has another name: it is called evening star because the petals seem to glow at night. It is a perennial reaching about 4 inches in height with pale yellow flowers it is especially fragrant. It can be eaten it is a true pot herb because the whole plant can be eaten. The root, when boiled, tastes to me something like parsnips.
The origin of Evening Primrose is North America but it spread to Europe by the cargo ship that were shipping cotton and soil was dumped and the plant began to grow. It was quickly recognized and named in Europe the "King Cureall" because of its many uses. Some of the studies that have been done on Evening Primrose oil are on PMS, Eczema, and other skin disorders, Cholesterol and Blood Pressure, Rheumatoid Arthritis, Alcoholism, Immune System, Obesity, Benign Breast Disease, Childhood Hyperactivity and Schizophrenia have all been shown to be helped by EPO supplementation.
Formerly cultivated for its nutritious edible roots, it is being increasingly cultivated for the oil contained in its seeds which contains certain the essential gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), a very valuable fatty acid that is not found in many plants and has numerous vital functions in the body. GLA is an essential fatty acid that the body does not manufacture. I personally have never used it except for a supplement for brittle dry nails, it is also very good for the hair. I also saw an improvement in my skin.
But the main reason I raise this herb is that it is beautiful and it brings delicious smells to my evening garden. I just like to have it around even if it was not good for medicinal uses I would invite it into my garden.
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