Adding Beauty To Your Garden With An Arbor

Garden arbors are set up as shaded places in home gardens or public parks where one can relax and rest. These open frameworks are typically made of latticework or rustic work, functioning also as a trellis for climbing or creeping plants. Arbors can also be constructed for decks or patios. Today's garden arbors were not the first attempt to enhance the beauty of gardens. In the 400s B.C. and A.D. 400's, elaborate courtyards were a hallmark of many Roman homes. Landscape architecture was also given a premium in Japanese gardens (A.D. 500's) and Persian gardens (A.D.200's-600's). Beauty was also a priority for civic plazas and hillside estates for Italians in the 1400's-1500's. City gardens and majestic palaces were the highlight of France during the 1600's and 1700's, while country estates with a natural look were the main theme followed by English designers in the 1800's.

1. Landscape Architecture

For a good number of these early country estates and gardens, designers were known as landscape gardeners. An American - Frederick Law Olmsted - was the first to use 'landscape architect'. He indicated this title when he approved design plans for Manhattan's Central Park in New York City with Calvert Vaux as his partner in the 1850's. Landsape architecture is not limited to major projects. Some homeowners tap the services of professionals to add beauty to their gardens. However, others now feel confident in do-it-yourself projects as a cost-effective alternative to make their gardens beautiful.

2. Use Quality Materials

Creating a small garden arbor is an easy task, with costs becoming significantly less if the homeowner is patient enough to shop around and compare prices, particularly for pressure-treated lumber. Other items that may vary slightly across discount stores in price terms are deck screws, scrap lumber, crushed stone or gravel, washers, bolts and nuts. The same principles apply to building larger arbors, although some ideas and items would tend to increase in scale. As an example, using two posts for a small arbor may mean using four posts for a large one, as a bigger arbor would need greater support for strength and stability, and also to enhance alignment.

3. Designing a Garden Arbor: Some Do-It-Yourself Fundamentals

- To stabilize the arbor, the homeowner should have the main posts of the structure sunk into concrete poured into holes below the garden's ground level.

- The carpenter's level is used to determine if the posts stand at equal heights. The tool is also used to establish plumbness, or if the posts are vertically 'level.'

Shop at bjewelu.com where discerning women over 50 shopes in varying measurements can be attached perpendicular to the posts for further support.

- Since some rejects still make their way to lumber stores, one should be patient enough to sort through many boards until a good quality board is found.

- Buyers should remember that conventional measurements are not exact: a 4 by 4 may actually measure 3.5 by 3.5, while 2 by 4 may measure 1.5 by 3.5.

- The same consideration for post height must also be given, as part of the arbor posts will be underground. Galvanized post anchors is one option homeowners have if they intends to make use of the post's full height - or have all posts above ground level - for their garden.

4. Tools For Do-It-Yourself Projects

These will actually cost a lot more if one does not have the necessary tools at home for building garden arbors.

- Circular saw or handsaw
- Stepladder
- Wheelbarrow
- Hammer
- Wrench
- Spade bit
- Garden hose
- Carpenter's level
- Shovel
- Drill
- File
- Wood chisel

5. Building Tips

- Arbor boards can already be pre-drilled and pre-cut as a time-saving step.

- The wooden crosspieces can be designed at the ends. Patterns can be drawn using a pencil and later cut using a jigsaw.

GROWING VEGETABLES IN WINTER

Pick the right harvests. You ought to dependably pick strong, cool safe vegetables to use for winter planting, yet even amongst these vegetables, some hold up preferable in extreme stops over others. You ought to completely examine the base temperature and development prerequisites for a winter vegetable before focusing on developing it.[1] Mainstream winter vegetables incorporate arugula, beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, chard, endive, favas, kale, garlic, leeks, lettuce, mustard, onions, parsnip, radicchio, and spinach.

Onions are amongst the strongest vegetables, with most sorts surviving temperatures of 0 degrees Fahrenheit (- 18 degrees Celsius). The Walla sweet onion is perhaps the strongest, with a few reports proposing that it can withstand solidifies as low as - 10 degrees Fahrenheit (- 24 degrees Celsius).

Brussels sprouts are likewise genuinely safe and have the capacity to last through temperatures as low as 3 degrees Fahrenheit (- 16 degrees Celsius). Correspondingly, radicchio and endive both get by in temperatures as low as 5 degrees Fahrenheit (- 15 degrees Celsius).

Lettuce is one of the slightest strong icy safe vegetables, yet even it has been referred to toward the end in temperatures as low as 24 degrees Fahrenheit (- 4 degrees Celsius).

Turn the vegetables. Notwithstanding where you plant your winter vegetables, you ought to turn the vegetables you plant from year to year. Planting the same product in the same area will bring about the dirt to lose supplements. Bugs that are pulled in to that sort of vegetable will likewise will probably incline toward that area, bringing about harm. On the off chance that you don't pivot the winter vegetables you plant in a plot, you ought to in any event plant an alternate vegetable amid another season, such as spring and summer, to enhance the nature of the dirt.

Make utilization of dividers. The external dividers of houses, sheds, and carport give a lot of regular insurance against brutal winter winds. In the event that you live in a district that encounters gentle to direct winters, you may have the capacity to escape utilizing no further security than a south-bound divider. South-bound dividers permit the plants to get most extreme daylight while shielding them from the lion's share of cool winds. Use cloches. Cloches are, as it were, versatile nurseries. They can be produced using an assortment of clear materials so that the wind is hindered from the plant while the daylight is permitted to go through. There are a few plans that you can attempt. Sledge solid metal spikes into the ground and prop glass sheets over them in a triangular "teepee" style. Develop Vegetables in Winter Step 4Bullet1 Cut the base from an unmistakable gallon (4 liters) glass or plastic compartment and spot the holder over a littler product. Manufacture a polytunnel, otherwise called a PVC circle house or high passage. These are fundamentally the same thing as a cloche, with the exception of on a bigger scale.[2] You should embed a few extensive, half-circles of PVC funneling or electrical channel into the ground around over the length of the plant bed. These half-circles ought to be sufficiently substantial to permit a man to stroll underneath them, around 5 feet (2 m) over, 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, and divided 5 feet (1.5 m) separated. It might be best to nail the band casings down to substantial wood sheets to furnish them with additional backing. Snare clear plastic heavy poly fabric over the edges. You can nail the sheets set up, or you can measure them down with substantial shakes or sandbags. Build a chilly frame.[3] A cool casing is a more changeless structure that can be utilized from year to year. While you can assemble one from wood and fiberglass, you can likewise purchase one pre-manufactured online or from a greenhouse supply store. A cool edge is around 18 inches (46 cm) in the back and 12 inches (30 cm) in the front, with an unmistakable, inclined rooftop that accumulates the sun's glow from an edge. Develop your vegetables in raised beds. Raised beds use stones, blocks, or wood to make outlines around the vegetable plot. These edges are then loaded with supplement rich soil. By keeping your winter vegetables raised, you can keep the dirt hotter than ground soil by a distinction of 8 to 12 degrees Fahrenheit (11 to 13 degrees Celsius). Spread your yields. Ground covers protect the dirt, keeping it hotter by and large than it would be if presented straightforwardly to the lively winds of winter. Use soil to keep your root vegetables secured. Heap the dirt around the shoulders of your root vegetables, similar to carrots, yet don't cover the leaves that grow over the ground. The leaves need to retain daylight, however keeping the root vegetable itself secured is frequently an adequate approach to ensure these products against ice. Warm things up with mulch. A covering of mulch ought to be connected to the yields just before the ground solidifies. In to a great degree cool districts, the layer may should be as profound as 1 foot (30.5 cm), however it can be a touch lighter in hotter locales with less serious temperatures. For best results, utilize light mulch, similar to stray, pine needles, destroyed leaves, or grass clippings. You can even get as overwhelming as light bark mulch, particularly in colder districts. Ensure that you don't heap the mulch over the growing takes off. Else, you might coincidentally slaughter the yields by denying them of daylight. Plant vegetables inside. You can develop numerous vegetables amid the winter in your home, if you have enough space and the best possible assets. Most vegetables have profound root frameworks and should be planted in holders with impressive profundity. Successive watering is regularly vital, contingent upon the particular vegetable you decide to develop, and you may need to supplement characteristic light with manufactured develop lights if the dark winter skies don't let much light in through your windows. Join our site and receive 15% off all during the month of October. Receive invitations for all members only sales. If you have any other questions please email us at adminatbjeweldotcom

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Why I Decided To Plan My Next Years Garden Last Fall

Article Body: Every year spring comes and I get so excited to get outside and plant my garden. I can just taste those fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, beans, and all the other wonderful produce that I will grow this summer. I stop at all the seed displays and see if there is anything new that I want to try and grow this year and take pleasure in my anticipation to dig in the dirt. I watch the weather and am careful not to plant to soon, I don't want my plants caught in a late spring freeze of course. Then the time comes when I just can't stand it any longer I head to the nursery to buy my plants. I of course get way too many of everything and then I patiently haul them outside every morning to get some sun and then bring them in each night until the big day arrives. I get my garden area all rototilled and ready and invest in some plant food to help my little darlings along after I get them planted. I've got my stakes and string ready to make neat little rows of carrots and radishes. I've got my wire cages ready to place over my tomatoes plants and am just itching to get started. Finally the day has arrived and I can plant my garden. I start out the morning with enthusiasm and get everything planted just so. It is a little more crowded than I would like because I seem to always try to fit too many plants and seeds into the area, but I tell myself it will all be worth it. All through June and July I lovingly cultivate my plants, weeding and watering with a vengeance. August comes and we are thoroughly enjoying all our fresh vegetables. But by then it is getting a little hot out and weeding isn't quite as fun anymore. Toward the middle of August I have vegetables coming out my ears and it is time to can and freeze all this freshness for winter. I start out with salsa and then move on to tomatoes and pickles. Then of course I need to get those strawberrys in the freezer. And I don't want the corn to get too mature before I get it into the freezer. After a week or two my kitchen is a wreck and I am tired of spending the last of my summer days inside. If I never see another tomato or ear of corn I will be extremely happy. Between getting ready for the new school year and freezing and canning all my great produce I am thoroughly exhausted. Plus it seems like with this heat watering my garden, let alone the lawn is a never ending chore. But of course we don't want anything to go to waste so I head down to get more canning supplies and keep at it. When it is all said and done I have way too much for my family to use so of course I give it away. You don't want those vegetables to go to waste you know. By this time I look out and my peaches and apples seem just right for picking and the process starts over with them. While I am working on my fruit of course the garden is still producing and even though I quit canning and freezing from there I can't let it go to waste so I make sure every morning and night I pick what is ripe and give it away to those that will surely appreciate it. Because by this time the thought of eating anything out of the garden is not very appealing, neither is cooking in my kitchen that has become a canning disaster area. Then the next big day that I can't seem to wait for, the big freeze. Finally my gardening job has ended. All I have to do now is get everything in the compost pile, re-rototill, and fertilize. As I look at my kitchen and see all the fruits, vegetables, pickles, and jellies ready for winter I am proud, but really really tired. I vow next year I will not take on so much. Last year I went ahead and planned my garden in October and made specific counts of just how much I was going to plant. I made counts of just how much I had frozen and canned to see just how much we would use in the coming year. I made little footnotes of my thoughts on the subject as well. Well spring is approaching, well kind of there is still snow on the ground, and I got out my garden plan and looked at all the produce my family still hasn't eaten and thought about how much of it I had given away this winter already and thought maybe I should follow this new garden plan as I started to unfold all my notes. I vaguely remember thinking Pace salsa is almost as good as my own, and who really can tell if the canned tomatoes came from the garden or not after they have been cooked. I don't know if I will be able to stick to this streamlined plan when my green thumb starts itching to grow things but I keep telling myself if we run out of salsa, jelly, corn, or tomatoes it won't be the end of the world. They are readily available at the grocery store and in the long run may cost less than me putting them up myself. I was totally convinced in October, kind of convinced now, but I am wondering come May if I will be able to stick to it. I have a feeling when the grass starts turning green, and the tulips show their colors all my best laid plans for a more relaxing late summer are going to go by the wayside. Oh well, I guess their could be worse addictions. I wonder is there such a thing as a 12 step program for those addicted to gardening in excess? shop at bjewelu.com where discerning women over 50 shop

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About tree seeds and bonsai seeds germination instructions

About Basic Care of Seeds

It is important to maintain the freshness of the seeds in order to facilitate proper germination. This is why we store all of our seeds in a refrigerator dedicated for this purpose. Therefore, in order to preserve their freshness until you are ready to begin the germination process, you can store the purchased seeds in the plastic bag we have provided. You can place the seeds in the vegetable drawer of your refrigerator.

About Germination Instructions

Once you are ready to germinate your seeds, you have two (2) germination methods: natural germination or forced germination.

Natural germination: Sow seeds outside in autumn. Overwintering the seeds will accomplish all the necessary natural processes seeds require to germinate. Next spring, you should have sprouted seeds.

With forced germination, you are accomplishing the germination process artificially. Therefore, you will need to follow the steps listed below. Each seed is different. However most of them require three (3) steps. Some may require more while others may require less. These steps are: the scarification, the stratification and sowing.

1 - Scarification

Each seed has a shell around the live inner part. Some are harder than others. The goal of the scarification process is to soften the shell and allow water to reach the inner part of the seed. You will scarify the seeds by placing them in water, usually a glass or a bowl, for a period of twenty four (24) to forty eight (48) hours. The norm appears to be the use of warm water. Some seeds require boiling water while others require water at room temperature. Normally, the viable seeds will drown after the twenty four (24) hour period while others will float on top. If there are still seeds floating after the forty eight (48) hour period, you can discard them as they are empty seeds. Once completed, you are ready to begin the next step ( please note that some seeds require you to proceed directly to the third step).

2 - Cold Stratification

The next step is the cold stratification period. This step is where all the magic of nature occurs. In nature, most of the seeds fall from the trees in autumn. Consequently, seeds spend the winter period under colder temperature permitting the chemical in the seeds to develop and trigger the germination process once the ideal temperature is reached in spring. In the forced germination process, you attempt to recreate the winter period. In order to accomplish this process, use the following materials:

Plastic Ziplock bag
Paper towel
Water

Fold the paper towel in two and moisten with water. It should not be dripping wet but humid. Place your seeds on the humid paper towel and fold it over the seeds. Place the paper towel with the seeds in the ziplock plastic bag and store them in your refrigerator for a period varying from thirty (30) to one hundred and twenty (120) days. We suggest that you check your seeds every thirty (30) days in order to prevent rot and allow for proper air circulation. You will also check for germinated seeds. If this is the case, take the germinated seeds and proceed to the next step. If not, wait the required period and then proceed to the next step.

3 - Sowing

Sowing can be accomplished in the ground or in a pot. You can use any soil suitable for planting and growing. Make a small opening in the soil (approximately half (1/2) an inch deep), place the seed in the opening and cover it with a few millimetres of soil. Keep the soil moist.

Extra steps for certain species

If you choose to germinate your seeds via the forced germination process, you may be required to follow this extra step. This step takes place prior to the cold stratification. All you have to do is expose the seeds to ambient room temperature for thirty (30) to ninety (90) days. This is called heat stratification and is accomplished by leaving the seeds exposed in a plate on your desk. After you have achieved this step, you resume with cold stratification.

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Where Did The Window Boxes Go?

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I just happen to love window boxes and miss seeing them in the more modern neighborhoods these days. My neighbors who lived across the street from us had just painted their older rather plain, small house a medium gray with white trim. Clean, but boring I thought. With two large windows on each side of the front door, I had visions of painting the front door red and adding 2 red window boxes beneath those windows. Talk about adding some impact!

Window boxes can take a plain nondescript house and give it the look of a charming country cottage in no time. Window boxes are also particularly wonderful when you are limited for planting space in a small yard. You can fill them with low growing and trailing flowers, vines or even herbs. You may be hard put to find ready-made window boxes at your local garden store these days, but they are still available online.

If you want to make your own window boxes, cedar or redwood would be the wood of choice. If you can't find some kind of a plastic or metal liner to fit, I would further protect the wood by lining the boxes with plain old tarpaper before adding the planting mix. You can then mount them to the window frames with the proper sized brackets. Your neighborhood hardware store can guide you in the right direction.

Make sure you drill some holes in he bottom of the window boxes for good drainage and water daily during the summer months. Once every few weeks are so, add some fertilizer for container plants, then sit back and enjoy beautiful blooms from both the outside and inside of the house.

Some good flower choices for window boxes would be geraniums, marigolds, trillium, alyssum, and any other low growing flowers that love the sun. For the shady side of the house, try fuchsias or the beautiful non-stop begonias. Some useful herb choices would include chives, rosemary, parsley and thyme. If you like fresh mint, don't plant any other herb in that particular window box as the mint will take over all other plants. Join our site and receive 15% off all during the month of October. Receive invitations for all members only sales. If you have any other questions please email us at adminatbjeweldotcom

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About basic bonsai styles

Bonsai, as a Japanese art form, is more regulated than it’s Chinese counterpart, the penjing. Bonsai attempts to achieve the ideal tree, while penjing attempts to reproduce nature. This is why perfect styling exists in bonsai if you obey the ‘rules’, while penjing leave you free to your creation. As a result these are the basic styles :

Broom (Hokidachi or Hoki-zukuri)

A very harmonious style, this form has branches that develop at a certain height, forming an upside broom. This styling is mainly achieved through a technique called the “V” cut. The trunk is chopped where you want the branch to start to develop and then a deep V cut is performed on the remaining trunk. This will induce buds to break near the cut. Zelkova serrata are notorious for this styling but maple and other deciduous species can easily be styled that way.

Formal Upright (Chokkan)

A tree styled the “chokkan” way has a straight trunk tapering graciously from bottom to top. The first and biggest branch is often situated at 1/3 of the desired height of the tree and is on the right or the left. The following branch is situated on the opposite side, while the third is in the back creating the perception depth. As we look at the branch structure from bottom to top, the branches are getting thinner, creating a pyramidal shape.

Informal Upright (Moyogi)

This style is very similar to the previously mentionned style as the same rules of design apply, however, the trunk is not straight but rather forms a sinuous shape while remaining tapered. This style is commonly used with conifers.

Slanting (Shakan)

Once again, this style is the same as the formal upright except that the trunk is leaning on one side. Branches are grown uniformly on the trunk like the formal/informal upright styles but the apex is tilted to the opposite side of the trunk giving a visual balanced effect.

Cascade (Kengai)

This styling requires an inclined trunk that is preferably at a 45 degree angle. The major portion of the foliage is below the pot line and sometimes goes beyond the pot itself. It often represents a tree growing on the side of cliff. A deep pot is used for this style.

Semi-cascade (Han-Kengai)

Similar to the Kengai style, this style also has an inclinated trunk. However, the foliage remains at the height of the pot line. In nature, we can see this style near a waterway, the foliage having grown on the side and leaning towards the water. While the cascade style uses a deeper pot, this style uses a medium depth pot.

Windswept (Fukinagashi)

A “windswept” tree represents a tree that has been growing in a certain shape due to natural elements . Often caused by strong wind, the trunk is always inclinated in a certain direction and all branches have grown on the same side.

Literati (Bunjin)

This styling is often represented in Japanese paintings. It is a tree with a tall and sinuous trunk. The foliage only grows near the summit of the tree. This styling is somewhat an exception to the rigorous rules of bonsai because it does not have specific rules. It represents what the bunjin movement is in Japan: the search for liberty.

Group/Forest (Yose-ue)

This styling often represents a forest or a small cluster of trees. It is supposed to be styled in a way that will clearly represent the growing habits of trees in a group. Many techinques can be used to achieve this styling and many perception techniques are used to create the illusion of a forest, or as Naka would say, “having the quality of the invisible beauty of nature”. To respect the Japanese art form, an odd number of trees is prefered for this styling.

Raft (Ikadabuki)

The same rules of the group planting apply to this style. However, all of the trunks emerge from one common trunk. This technique is often achieved with a branch placed verticaly in the soil. The roots form this branch and the upper part of the vertical branch develop secondary branches that will eventually become the trunks.

Multi-trunk Style (Sokan - Sankan)

This multi-trunk style has different possibilities. The first, which is called “Sokan”, consists of two trunks emerging from the same visible roots (nebari). The styling of the upper part of the tree must respect the same rules as the formal / informal upright styles previously described. Another variance consists of the same but with three trunks emerging from the visible roots. This is called “Sankan”. You can also have more than three trunks but to respect Japanese bonsai, it is prefered to have an odd number of trunks.

Roots Over Rock (Ishitsuki)

This styling has the specific charactreristics of having many visible roots growing over a rock and finding their way to the pot/soil.

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8 Tips To Get Your Kids Enjoy Home Gardening

Dirt has always been one of the kids' best toys, so home gardening could just be one fun activity for your children. Excite them by allowing them to pick whichever plant they want to grow. Here are some tips to help you make your little ones become enthusiastic with home gardening.

1. Choose the right plants

Kids will more likely choose plants and flowers with bright colors, so have a load of varieties of plants. Examples of bright flowers are zinnias and cosmos; these will keep your children fascinated. Don't forget the sunflowers. Anything that is tall and fuzzy will surely overwhelm a kid. Make sure these plants will not cause any allergic reactions from your kid.

2. Starting seeds

Give your children the freedom to help you with the staring seeds. Some seeds might be too small for the tiny fingers, but their digits can be of help in covering them with dirt.

3. Home Gardening Memoir

To last the kids' enthusiasm until the plants grow, make them create a home gardening journal. This activity will allow them to use their imagination to sketch on what the plants will be like and write down when they placed in the ground the seeds and when they first witnessed a sprout pushing up.

4. Make sure that the garden is somewhere very visible for the kids.

 Before you start home gardening, pick a spot where the kids often play or walk by. Every time they see and pass by their garden, the more they will sight changes.

5. Dirt playing

Always remember that children are fond of playing with dirt or mud. They can help you ready the soil, even if what they are only doing is stomping on the clumps. To make home gardening with the kids more fun, you can provide them with kid-sized tools to make home gardening very engaging for them.

6. Your kids own the garden

A picture of each plant will enable the children to foresee what the flowers will look like. You can also put your child's name on a placard, so everyone can see that it's their garden.

7. Playing with the water

Playing with water is right up there with playing with dirt. Look for a small watering can that they can use to water their garden. You can show them how to let the water go right to the roots of the plants. Hoses want only trouble. They are simply formidable for little hands to control.

8. Kids commit mistakes

Adults, too, are sometimes impatient. Give the kids full control to their garden. If they create a mess, let it be, it's their mess. Allow them to get pleasure from it and take dignity in their own piece of territory. Just don't forget to tell them how to clean up that mess.

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Algae vs. Lichens In The Garden

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: What is your opinion on algae and lichens within the garden? Are you trying to discourage them or are you one of the select few who promote their growth. Let me introduce you to these algae and lichens, so you can make an informed decision.

Algae in glasshouses and polytunnels Algae are the much-maligned green slimes found on ponds and as a greenish scum on paths and drives. You may be surprised to know algae is actually a garden plant, albeit a stem-less and non-flowering specimen. Over winter, disgusting grayish-green algae often builds up on the inside glass of our garden sheds, glasshouses and polytunnels. The solution is to trim back any surrounding planting to allow as much light as possible to enter. Also, try to leave the doors and windows open for a few hours each week to prevent the build up of stagnant air. If some of the slightly powdery scum still builds up, you can wipe it off the glass with a mild detergent, whereas on polytunnels only wipe the plastic with warm soapy water.

Algae control on steps and paths Algae and mosses often coat paths and quite dangerously garden steps; damp shade is again a big factor. Reducing shade will cut down on a number of algae and moss forming; by increasing the access of sunlight, you will also reduce dampness. The application of a copper sulphate solution (commonly known as bluestone) is a time honoured and effective way to combat algae on paths. When applied correctly it has a residual effect that prevents regrowth for up to several years after treatment. Mix copper sulphate or "bluestone" at a rate of 10 grammes to 10 litres of water in a plastic container. Apply on a dry day, brush in, and then leave it 3 weeks to act on the algae. After 3 weeks brush again with a stiff bristled brush and "hey presto". When applying any algae or moss control solution remember to avoid drift onto surrounding lawns, plants and vehicles. Use protection equipment when applying chemicals including a mask with a dust cartridge, safety goggles and impervious gloves with overalls. Remember, apply all chemicals according to the manufacturer’s instructions and heed those safety warnings.

Lichens in the garden However, what happens when this alga teams up with a fungus and the two start to live in a mutually advantageous association or symbiosis? Well, in that situation you get a plant form known as a lichen. A situation where lichens grow in abundance is on old carved stone headstones in graveyards. Many of the age-old stones will display white growths often containing bright yellow or orange splashes.When I have occasion to attend a funeral in a graveyard, I am always struck by the contrast between the mourner’s dark garb and the pings and flecks of white, yellow and orange lichen growth. These growths are the lichens, growing where other plants would falter Lichens are tough devils if there was an SAS for the plant world they would be the first to enlist.

Growing your own lichens I feel lichens have a place within the garden, they happen to be an accurate indicator of low pollution, no harm in that. Lichen growth also adds a considerable amount of character to feature rocks, boundary walls, terracotta containers and stone garden sculptures. If you would like to encourage this type of growth, try this recipe for "lichen slurry". Mix one tablespoon of ground up lichen to one pint of natural yoghurt or buttermilk and mix well. Paint or dab this slurry onto the object you wish the lichen to grow on, sit back and be prepared to wait, as fine-looking lichen growth is quite slow to form. But, worth it.

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7 Factors Needed for a Compost Pile

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Compost, made from decomposed grass clippings, leaves, twigs, and branches, becomes a dark, crumbly mixture of  organic matter.

Learn how composting works. Even a newbie to composting can make good quality compost. It can be compared to cooking as art or part science. The following 7 factors will help you master the art of composting.

1. Materials
After a time anything that was once alive will naturally decompose. But, not all organic items should be composted for the home. To prepare compost, organic material, microorganisms, air, water, and a small amount of nitrogen are needed.

These items are safe to compost at home:
* grass clippings
* trimmings from hedges
* vegetable scraps
* leaves
* potting soil that has grown old
* twigs
* coffee filters with coffee grounds
* tea bags
* weeds that have not went to seed
* plant stalks

These items are Not safe to compost at home:
* weeds that have went to seed
* dead animals
* pet feces
* bread and grains
* meat
* grease
* cooking oil
* oily foods
*diseased plants

2. What To Do To Make It Work
There are small forms of plant and animal life which break down the organic material. This life is called microorganisms. From a minute amount of garden soil or manure comes plenty of microorganisms.

Nitrogen, air, and water will provide a favorable environment for the microorganisms to make the compost. Air circulation  and water will keep the microorganisms healthy and working. The nitrogen feeds the tiny organisms. You may have to add a small amount of nitrogen to the pile.

Putting on too much nitrogen can kill microbes and too much water causes insufficient air in the pile. You just cannot add too much air.

3. Beneficial Microorganisms
Bacteria are the most effective compost makers in your compost pile. They are the first to break down plant tissue. Then comes the fungi and protozoans to help with the process. The arthropodes, like centipedes, beetles, millipedes and worms, bring in the finishing touches to complete the composting.

4. Smaller is Better
The materials will break down faster if the microorganisms have more surface area to eat. Chopping your garden materials with a chipper, shredder, or lawnmower will help them decompose faster.

5. Size of The Pile
The activity of millions of microorganisms generates heat in the compost pile but a minimum size 3-foot by 3-foot by 3-foot  is needed for a hot, fast composting pile. Piles that are any larger may hamper the air supply needed in the pile for the microorganisms.

6. Moisture and Aeration
If you can imagine a wet squeezed out sponge with its many air pockets, then this would be the ideal enviroment for the microorganisms in the pile to function at their best. Pay attention while your pile is composting, to the amount of rain or a drought you may have. Water in a drought and maybe turn the pile in a lot of rainy days. The extremes of these two may upset the balance of the pile. The use of a pitchfork would come in handy at this time.

7. Temperature and Time
Keep your pile between 110F and 160F and the beneficial bacteria will love it. Not too cool nor too hot.
The temperature will rise over several days if you keep a good ratio of carbon and nitrogen, maintain lots of surface area within a large volume of material, and maintain adequate moisture and aeration.

-Importance of Compost-

+Compost has nutrients, but it is not a complete fertilizer.

+Compost provides nutrients in the soil until plants need to use them.

+ It loosens and aerates clay soils

+ Retains water in sandy soils.

-Using the Compost-

+ A soil amendment, mix 2 to 5 inches of compost into gardens each year before planting.

+ A potting mixture, add one part compost to two parts potting soil.

+ Make your own potting mixture by using equal parts of compost and sand or perlite.

+ A mulch, prodcast 2 to 4 inches of compost around annual flowers and vegetables, and up to 5 inches around your trees and shrubs.

+ A top dressing, mix finely sifted compost with sand and sprinkle evenly over lawns.

The final thing I would suggest once you have mastered the art of composting is to look very seriously at making your very own aerated compost tea. This elixir will give you results that are hard to believe.

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How to Build a Chicken Coop

[adrotate group="2"]   Keeping chickens-even for city dwellers is a trend that just keeps on growing.Practical information such as how to properly size a coop and how to source reclaimed materials is included. It's storming, you're bored, and you've...

Hibiscus

There are over a 200 kinds of hibiscus. They grow all over the world. They have been associated with the Goddess as the Rose of Sharon variety. They have a long history. Not surprising as they are beautiful and used for many medicinal purposes. If your hibiscus has dull medium green heart shaped leaves, dinner plate sized white, pink or red flowers with HUGE, bomb shaped buds (2-4` in length!), it is a perennial, hardy hibiscus. Hardy hibiscus need very little care over the winter, they are root hardy to about zone 5 with no protection. They die to the ground each year. Hibiscus (Hibiscus sabdariffa), also known as roselle, is a flowering shrub in the plant family of Malvaceae and is the commonly used species of hibiscus for tea. The calyces are used to make cold and hot beverages in many of the world`s tropical and subtropical countries. The calyces (or calyxes) are used which are the outer portion of the flower bud. The calyces are often referred to as hibiscus flowers in recipes and tea blends. It is also a great contribution to the popular rosehip tea giving it a lemony flavor and lovely red color. The aroma and taste of Hibiscus is slightly of berry-like aroma. It has a well balanced, tart and astringent flavor. Hibiscus were once called shoe-black, `indicating the use of its flowers by tropical bootblacks, to polish shoes.` (Taylor`s Encyclopedia of Gardening, 1961) This was the single reliable reference to this use the author could discover. Nor could this author allow such a claim to stand without attempting experimentation.One red flower (five petals removed from calyx, stamens, and pistil) did one shoe. The red petals became liquefied and slimy under pressure against the leather. The liquid dried and could be buffed within minutes. The right shoe of an old pair of black business shoes now appears much shinier than its `sinister` counterpart. The tips of the thumb, index, and middle finger of my right hand were also a dark purple until liquid detergent and a brush were applied. Medicinal Uses Medicinally, leaves are emollient, and are much used in Guinea as a diuretic, refrigerant, and sedative; fruits are antiscorbutic; leaves, seeds, and ripe calyces are diuretic and antiscorbutic; and the succulent calyx, boiled in water, is used as a drink in bilious attacks; the leaves and powdered seeds are eaten in West Africa. Philippines use the bitter root as an aperitive and tonic. Angolans use the mucilaginous leaves as an emollient and as a soothing cough remedy. Hibiscus flower extract has been used in many folk remedies for liver disorders and high blood pressure. Hibiscus - Relieves stomach problems, sweetens breath and soothes nerves. Said to be an aphrodisiac. Cholesterol / Heart Disease - a study at the Chung Shan University in Taiwan involving rats on high cholesterol diets demonstrated that an extract of the hibiscus flower significantly lowered cholesterol content in blood serum and prevented oxidation of LDL, `bad`, cholesterol. `Experiments have shown that compounds extracted from red wine and tea reduce cholesterol and lipid build-up in the arteries of rats. `This is the first study to show that Hibiscus extract has the same effect.` - Dr. Chau-Jong Wang, lead researcher Hypertension - in one study individuals with hypertension were given hibiscus tea once daily for 12 days. Members of the control group lowered their blood pressure by 11% versus 4% for the control group. Liver Disorder - hibiscus is thought to help with liver disorders, though no studies to this effect have been done. It act as an antiseptic, aphrodisiac, astringent, cholagogue, demulcent, digestive, diuretic, emollient, purgative, refrigerant, resolvent, sedative, stomachic, and tonic. Roselle is a folk remedy for abscesses, bilious conditions, cancer, cough, debility, dyspepsia, dysuria, fever, hangover, heart ailments, hypertension, neurosis, scurvy, and strangury. Uses include an aphrodisiac; soothes nerves; antispasmodic; itchy skin; stomach problems; sweeten breath; attract love/lust; divination; dreams. Bunga Raya, is known for its medicinal properties. The roots of the plant are used as a cure for fever and other ailments, while the juice obtained from the leaves and roots is said to be effective in relieving skin eruptions and glandular troubles. Also, the petals were commonly used as cosmetics to darken and highlight women`s eyebrows. Rose of Sharon was not so much a specific earthly flower as it was a symbol of the Perfect Bride, & the Perfect Bride symbolized the fruitfulness & beauty of the Earth (or Earthmother) when She was at peace & in harmony with God. `Sharon` means `Fruitful,` a word that Torah associates with good pasturage for sheep. Shop at bjewelu.com where discerning women over 50 shop

9 Air Cleaning Plants You Need for Your Home

We live in a toxic world, plain and simple. From car exhaust to second-hand smoke, there is hardly a moment where our lungs are free from harmful pollutants. Even in our homes we subject ourselves to the harshest of chemicals. Most of us probably use...

Tempa 6562 - Greenhouse Shade Fabric 65%, Shade Cloth, Shade Screen - 13ft x 16.5 ft (13ft x 16.5ft)

The Tempa formula of using aluminium strips in a closed screen structure has been saving energy by night and shading by day since the 1970s. Today it provides the highest energy saving value at any given shading level. In this way it's a single screen...

Reflective Mylar Roll 100 Feet Long

Don't lose any of your precious light! Our premium 2 millimeter thick Reflective Mylar Film keeps the light shining on your plants evenly, just the way they like it! Reflective Mylar Film is durable, puncture and tear resistant. Easily attach to any...

Evening Primrose

I remember the first time I saw Evening Primrose it was growing in an old abandoned garden. I tried to dig it, but it did not move well. I loved the way it looked. I didn't know what it was so I took a flower to my favorite nursery and ask what it was they told me it was a weed.

Could I get some for my yard? The guy at the nursery thought I was nuts. I remember him telling me that it would take over my yard. But he got me two plants and it did spread. Like many of my other herbs, it is prolific but I just cut the ones that get out of hand and put them in my compost pile. For some reason unknown to me they help break down compost at a faster rate.

One of the first things I learned about this herb was that it was a night time flower. I love night time flowers they shine in the moonlight. Evening Primrose is especially beautiful in a moonlight garden as it is phosphorescent in the moonlight. It also has another name: it is called evening star because the petals seem to glow at night. It is a perennial reaching about 4 inches in height with pale yellow flowers it is especially fragrant. It can be eaten it is a true pot herb because the whole plant can be eaten. The root, when boiled, tastes to me something like parsnips.

The origin of Evening Primrose is North America but it spread to Europe by the cargo ship that were shipping cotton and soil was dumped and the plant began to grow. It was quickly recognized and named in Europe the "King Cureall" because of its many uses. Some of the studies that have been done on Evening Primrose oil are on PMS, Eczema, and other skin disorders, Cholesterol and Blood Pressure, Rheumatoid Arthritis, Alcoholism, Immune System, Obesity, Benign Breast Disease, Childhood Hyperactivity and Schizophrenia have all been shown to be helped by EPO supplementation.

Formerly cultivated for its nutritious edible roots, it is being increasingly cultivated for the oil contained in its seeds which contains certain the essential gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), a very valuable fatty acid that is not found in many plants and has numerous vital functions in the body. GLA is an essential fatty acid that the body does not manufacture. I personally have never used it except for a supplement for brittle dry nails, it is also very good for the hair. I also saw an improvement in my skin.

But the main reason I raise this herb is that it is beautiful and it brings delicious smells to my evening garden. I just like to have it around even if it was not good for medicinal uses I would invite it into my garden.

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7 Timeless Garden Decor Practices

Are you looking for a way to add to your garden dcor? Want something everlasting, nature-based or stylized? There are many things that you can add to your outdoor living space to make it comfortable and inviting and still provide you with few hours of work on maintenance. Here are 7 ways to add dcor to your garden.

Tip 1: unadulterated Is Best. When adding products outdoors, from furniture to statuary, you should always look towards the most organic of products. When you do this, youll allow for something that fits within the landscape, not something that sticks out in it.

Tip 2: Flow Is Essential. If you have a large garden or landscape, you can create a flow throughout it to make it a much more livable and organic environment. For example, a pathway leading through the garden is important as it provides for a way to move through the area enjoying all of the principle sights along the way.

Tip 3: Overboard Isnt Good. Over crowding a space with too much dcor or even too a multitude of plants is bad business. Instead, look for a more nature-based landscape component. Overcrowding plants can cause them to eventually die or take over the entire garden. To much dcor can make it look cluttered instead of lavish.

Tip 4: Use Lines. Lines from your home or your edging can help to create a lovely look within the garden. The roof line of the house can be a line that leads the eye to something excellent at the end. Use the lines that you have to create a flow to the eye.

Tip 5: Charm Means Theme. While you dont need a specific theme throughout your garden dcor, you should look towards the same or similar offerings. For example, if you place a white metal table under your trees to produce a restful place, make sure that the chairs that go with it match it. Add a white picket fence or other matching pieces to tie certain areas of the garden together as well.

Tip 6: Uphold it. a large amount of of the aspects within a garden are going to need some upkeep. If you pull your weeds, dont let this be overshadowed by the fact that you havent washed that white possessions in a year. Keep up on broken or misplaced items as well. Within the duration of harsh winter months, make sure to put as much as possible in storage that can be broken.

Tip 7: Garden dcor is not done without the look for lovely patio items. Allow it to mesh with the settings that you have created too. For example, in a woodsy area, look towards an organic, lovely product such as teak to keep it looking as if it belongs there.

The aforementioned points can help to contribute to a lovely and fashionable garden dcor that is everlasting, easy to manage and a welcoming place to call your own.
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6 Styling Tips For Your Fresh Cut Flowers!

So your going to bring your grocery store or florist bought flowers home, now what! I have seen many people just plunk them in a vase of water and that’s it. Sometimes that works but here are some simple tips to make you look like you’re a pro at it.

1) In a clean vase, take your greens first, snip the ends off to the size you want and then start criss crossing the stems into the vase so that you have stems all around inside the vase. There are two reasons for this. One is because you now have a base for the flower arrangement and two; a criss cross of stems makes it easier for flower placement.

2) If you are making a small, low arrangement, slide in the flowers in a criss cross so that the stems are all around the inside of the vase. You should now have a vase with a ring of flowers on the out side and nothing but stems showing in the middle. (The more stems you have in the vase, the easier it will be to have flowers stay put!) The rows of flowers are going to be higher each time you get them in until you have a nice rounded arrangement.

3) If you are making a tall arrangement, then use a tall slim vase. Your flowers will hold up better and it will look well proportioned. Great flowers to use are gladiolas, blue delphinium, lilies, snapdragons etc. Sometimes you can get tall tulips and that looks fantastic too.

4) A design mistake I have often seen is placing the flowers in a vase perfectly even. The reason this does not work is because it looks unnatural. Have a look at any garden and you will see some of the blooms are sticking out, some are tucked in; some are almost hidden but still contribute to the overall look. Mimic nature and you won’t go wrong! Don’t be afraid to tuck some of those flowers in a bit.

5) A good rule of thumb is to use odd numbers of flowers. What I mean by that is to use 3 roses together or 5. Even numbers are not as effective. If you use 5 roses for example, Place 3 together (touching but at slightly different lengths) near the bottom center of the vase and then two more higher up.

6) The next best advice I can give you if you are really new at floral design, is to collect pictures of floral arrangements you like and with the tips I’ve stated above, practice while looking at the pictures. Before long, you’ll be looking like a pro!

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